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Dragontail Peak — Backbone Ridge

Stuart Range, WA IV 5.9 Alpine Trad IV / ~18h car-to-car / Colchuck Lake approach alpine Ice slope · loose rock · committing

🚐 Join the caravan

🥾 Colchuck Lake (<2h) + moraine scramble to base ❄️ Late-season snowfield becomes pure ice — go late, or bring axe+crampons early

Dragontail's classic IV 5.9 buttress above Colchuck Lake — a long mixed alpine ridge with simul sections and a stellar 'Fin' finale (5.8 first pitch, harder second, spectacular last). ~18h car-to-car. Late season preferred: the standard snowfield turns to hard ice early.

🚗 Getting there & comms

Trailhead: Stuart Lake / Colchuck Lake TH

~8 mi up Icicle Creek Rd from Leavenworth; NW Forest Pass; lot fills pre-dawn

⛽ Last services: Leavenworth, WA

📶 Cell signal: Spotty/none — carry inReach

🧗 Routes

Backbone Ridge (with the Fin)IV 5.9
Fin variation: 5.8 P1, crux P2, spectacular final pitch

🎒 Gear & food

Rack: Standard alpine rack incl. a #4 and #6 for the wide sections + nuts

Ropes: 70m recommended (two 70m rappels to descend; 60m possible but tighter)

🪢 Skills needed

  • simul-climbing
  • multi-pitch trad
  • wide crack
  • snow/ice travel
  • alpine routefinding

⏰ Start & altitude

🌄 Timing: Pre-dawn — it's an ~18h car-to-car day

✅ Before you leave the trailhead

Auto-built from this dossier — ticks save on this device.

🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits

🪧 Land & passes: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Enchantments — NW Forest Pass

Camp:

  • Colchuck Lake (overnight = Enchantments permit lottery)

💧 Water: Colchuck Lake · snowmelt (treat)

📋 Permits: Day climbing needs no permit; overnight Enchantments permits are a lottery

⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency

  • Late-season snowfield turns to hard ice — crampons/axe early season
  • Loose rock at the rappel anchors
  • Serious & committing — multiple injuries reported here
  • Afternoon thunderstorms

🪂 Bail / retreat: Two 70m rappels from rock anchors near the summit, then off — avoid the late-season ice slope

🆘 Emergency contacts

  • Chelan County Sheriff (Leavenworth) — SAR 509-667-6851 — Call 911 first if you have signal

🌤️ Live conditions

🟢 Send window: Sat
Fri
☁️
57° 39°
Sat
☀️
61° 43°
Sun
☁️
75° 48°
Mon
☁️
73° 51°
Tue
☁️
63° 42°

Auto-updated 20h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓

👀 In the field

Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.

📍 Nearby & other interest

  • Serpentine Arête
  • Colchuck Peak
  • Aasgard Pass

💬 Comments

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