Your tie-in knot — strong, easy to inspect, the foundation.

Quick adjustable anchor tie-in — tie it one-handed at the belay.

Belay or rappel with just a locker when you drop your device.

Tie off a loaded munter hands-free — the core of every rescue.

Bomber bend for joining cord — ties your prusik loops.

The standard rap-line join — fast, won't roll if dressed + tailed.

Attach a sling to a harness or anchor in a second.

Friction hitch that grabs the rope — ascending + rappel backup.

Directional friction hitch — the autoblock backs up a rappel.

Mid-rope loop for the middle climber or isolating a core shot.

Re-tieable loop — handy around trees/anchors (dress it carefully).

Joins webbing for slings/anchors — tape the tails.

Carry the rope on your back, hands free for the approach.

Take coils over your shoulder to shorten the rope for moving together.

Butterfly-coil + backpack straps — the comfiest carry.

Manage slack on easy terrain while moving together.

The basic mechanical-advantage haul — a stuck follower or out of a crevasse.

More power when 3:1 isn't enough — how to compound systems.

Simple mechanical advantage with what you've got — understand the pulleys.

Get yourself out of the system to start a rescue — the essential skill.

Prusik up a fixed or stuck rope — self-rescue staple.

Get a join past your pulley mid-haul without dropping the load.

Three guide-approved ways to rig an improvised rappel with no device.

Lower a loaded strand under control — pairs with the MMO.

Build a rappel brake from locking carabiners when someone drops their device — no special gear needed.

What to do the moment your device is gone — the quick decision tree of safe alternatives.

Fast, strong, equalized multi-point anchors.

Self-equalizing two-point anchor with extension-limiting knots.

Principles: solid, redundant, equalized, no extension.

Spacing, coils, prusiks pre-rigged — ready before you step on ice.

Get your partner out of a crevasse, start to finish.

Stop a slide on snow — practice it cold, before you need it.

Guide technique for 3rd/4th-class terrain — coils, terrain belays, spacing.

Petzl's recommended technique — keep a hand on the brake at ALL times; feed slack with the "gas pedal" pinch. Assisted braking, NOT automatic. The #1 daily skill.

Single strand: block one strand at the ring with a knot + locker, descend the other; feather the lever to control speed (let go = stop). Practice at the gym first.

As the rope comes taut, hop/jump to lengthen the fall and soften the catch. Skip it near ledges or the ground — there, shorten the fall instead.

Always redirect the brake strand through a locking biner at the masterpoint when lowering from an anchor with a GriGri — friction + control, no pulley effect on the anchor.

Fix each strand to the anchor with butterfly knots → two single fixed lines, so one person rappels while the next rigs. Everyone must be solid on a single strand; the last person unties + raps normally.

Brains before brawn: flick it, pull the OTHER strand, change your angle, THEN build a 3:1. If you must reascend, LEAD it (safer if it frees suddenly). Carry prusiks; the EDK snags less than a double-fisherman's.