Dragontail Peak — Serpentine Arête
🚐 Join the caravan
One of the best moderate alpine rock lines in the Cascades — a 2,000-ft, ~15-pitch IV 5.8 arête on Dragontail's flank above Colchuck Lake. Mostly moderate (much can be simul-climbed) with two excellent technical pitches; only ~4 pitches (P3–6) really need pitching out. Descent via Aasgard Pass and the Snow Creek Glacier.
🚗 Getting there & comms
Trailhead: Stuart Lake / Colchuck Lake TH
~8 mi up Icicle Creek Rd from Leavenworth; NW Forest Pass; lot fills pre-dawn
⛽ Last services: Leavenworth, WA (full services)
📶 Cell signal: Spotty/none in the basin; some LTE high on the peak — carry inReach
🧗 Routes
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: 9 cams fingers to wide hands (a #3 optional / rarely needed) + nuts
Ropes: Single 60m
Footwear: Approach shoes; consider light boots if snowy
🪢 Skills needed
- simul-climbing
- multi-pitch trad
- snow travel (early season)
- alpine routefinding
⏰ Start & altitude
🌄 Timing: Pre-dawn — long day, beat afternoon storms
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits
🪧 Land & passes: Alpine Lakes Wilderness / Enchantments (Okanogan-Wenatchee NF) — NW Forest Pass to park
Camp:
- Colchuck Lake (overnight needs an Enchantments permit — lottery)
💧 Water: Colchuck Lake · snowmelt (treat)
📋 Permits: Day climbing needs no permit; overnight Enchantments permits are a competitive lottery; parking fills before dawn
⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Approach + route snow patches (early season)
- Loose/sandy rock, rockfall
- Lichen-covered slabs — traction
- Exposure
- Afternoon thunderstorms
🪂 Bail / retreat: Descend Aasgard Pass then the Snow Creek Glacier back toward Colchuck; carry axe early season
🆘 Emergency contacts
- Chelan County Sheriff (Leavenworth) — SAR 509-667-6851 — Call 911 first if you have signal
🌤️ Live conditions
Auto-updated 20h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓
👀 In the field
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📍 Nearby & other interest
- Colchuck Peak
- Backbone Ridge
- Aasgard Pass
- The Enchantments
💬 Comments
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