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Goat Wall — Flyboys

Mazama / Methow Valley, WA IV 5.9 Sport 18 pitches / ~1,500 ft / 275 bolts — among the longest bolted 5.9s in the US sport Massive 18-pitch day · heady P4 traverse · heat + storms · benighting

🚐 Join the caravan

Flyboys is possibly the longest bolted 5.9 in the US — a Grade IV, 18-pitch, ~1,500 ft sport route up the 2,000-ft Goat Wall andesite dome above Mazama (275 bolts; developed by Bryan Burdo & Jerry Daniels, 2016–17). Endless feel-good 5.7–5.9 with standout features: the Flying Staircase, the Bomb-Bay Squeeze Chimney, a heady exposed 5.9 traverse on P4, and a final-pitch crux of three consecutive 5.9+ boulder moves. Roadside Mazama sport — but a huge committing day.

🚗 Getting there & comms

Trailhead: Goat Wall pullout, Lost River Rd, Mazama

From the Mazama Store, head up Lost River Rd to the Goat Wall pullout; from the parking, walk ~200 ft SE along the road to the climber's path up the talus. NW Forest Pass.

⛽ Last services: Mazama Store (~1–2 mi) — fuel, food, espresso. Winthrop (~13–15 mi SE) for full services.

📶 Cell signal: Spotty/none on the wall; cell at the Mazama Store. Off-grid on route — carry inReach.

🧗 Routes

FlyboysIV 5.9 Sport
18 pitches, ~1,500 ft, 275 bolts; Flying Staircase, Bomb-Bay Squeeze Chimney, heady P4 5.9 traverse, final-pitch crux of three 5.9+ boulder moves

🥾 Approach · descent · season

Approach: From the road pullout, walk ~200 ft SE to a path leading up the talus field below the wall; ~25–30 min to the base.

⬇️ Descent: Long route — descend by walking off the top of the wall via the Goat Wall trail/ridge, or rappel the route on the bolted anchors with two ropes. Confirm the current descent beta and rap-station spacing before committing (it's 18 pitches up).

🗓️ Season: Spring–fall; the S/SW-facing andesite bakes in summer afternoon sun — start early. Greasy when wet; fast-building Methow thunderstorms.

🎒 Gear & food

Rack: Simple: 16 quickdraws + a few runners (fully bolted — no trad gear). Helmet. Plenty of water + food for the long day.

Ropes: Two ropes for the rappel descent (or per the current walk-off beta).

✅ Before you leave the trailhead

Auto-built from this dossier — ticks save on this device.

🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits

🪧 Land & passes: Okanogan-Wenatchee NF (Methow Valley RD).

📋 Permits: NW Forest Pass to park at the Goat Wall pullout. No climbing permit.

⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency

  • Enormous day — 18 pitches; benighting risk, carry headlamps + ample water/food
  • Heady exposed 5.9 traverse on P4
  • Andesite can be friable in spots + the squeeze chimney is awkward — helmet
  • Afternoon heat + fast-building Methow thunderstorms on an exposed wall
  • Long committing descent — know the rappels/walk-off
  • Limited bail once high on the wall

🆘 Emergency contacts

  • Emergency (Sheriff / SAR / Fire / Medical) 911 — Cell poor near Mazama — a satellite messenger may be needed
  • Okanogan County Sheriff dispatch (SAR) 509-422-7232 — Okanogan County SAR, activated via the Sheriff
  • Mid-Valley Hospital ER (Omak) — nearest 24-hr ER 509-826-1760 — ~1 hr+ from Mazama

🌤️ Live conditions

🟢 Send window: Fri–Sat
Fri
🌤️
63° 43°
Sat
☀️
67° 47°
Sun
☁️
80° 50°
Mon
☁️
77° 53°
Tue
☁️
70° 49°

Auto-updated 20h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓

👀 In the field

Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.

📍 Nearby & other interest

  • Earl Grey (III 5.9 sport, Valhalla)
  • Prime Rib of Goat — long Goat Wall moderate sport
  • Methow Inspiration Route — Goat Wall multipitch
  • Fun Rock — Mazama sport hub

💬 Comments

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