Goat Wall — Flyboys
🚐 Join the caravan
Flyboys is possibly the longest bolted 5.9 in the US — a Grade IV, 18-pitch, ~1,500 ft sport route up the 2,000-ft Goat Wall andesite dome above Mazama (275 bolts; developed by Bryan Burdo & Jerry Daniels, 2016–17). Endless feel-good 5.7–5.9 with standout features: the Flying Staircase, the Bomb-Bay Squeeze Chimney, a heady exposed 5.9 traverse on P4, and a final-pitch crux of three consecutive 5.9+ boulder moves. Roadside Mazama sport — but a huge committing day.
🚗 Getting there & comms
Trailhead: Goat Wall pullout, Lost River Rd, Mazama
From the Mazama Store, head up Lost River Rd to the Goat Wall pullout; from the parking, walk ~200 ft SE along the road to the climber's path up the talus. NW Forest Pass.
⛽ Last services: Mazama Store (~1–2 mi) — fuel, food, espresso. Winthrop (~13–15 mi SE) for full services.
📶 Cell signal: Spotty/none on the wall; cell at the Mazama Store. Off-grid on route — carry inReach.
🧗 Routes
🥾 Approach · descent · season
Approach: From the road pullout, walk ~200 ft SE to a path leading up the talus field below the wall; ~25–30 min to the base.
⬇️ Descent: Long route — descend by walking off the top of the wall via the Goat Wall trail/ridge, or rappel the route on the bolted anchors with two ropes. Confirm the current descent beta and rap-station spacing before committing (it's 18 pitches up).
🗓️ Season: Spring–fall; the S/SW-facing andesite bakes in summer afternoon sun — start early. Greasy when wet; fast-building Methow thunderstorms.
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: Simple: 16 quickdraws + a few runners (fully bolted — no trad gear). Helmet. Plenty of water + food for the long day.
Ropes: Two ropes for the rappel descent (or per the current walk-off beta).
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits
🪧 Land & passes: Okanogan-Wenatchee NF (Methow Valley RD).
📋 Permits: NW Forest Pass to park at the Goat Wall pullout. No climbing permit.
⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Enormous day — 18 pitches; benighting risk, carry headlamps + ample water/food
- Heady exposed 5.9 traverse on P4
- Andesite can be friable in spots + the squeeze chimney is awkward — helmet
- Afternoon heat + fast-building Methow thunderstorms on an exposed wall
- Long committing descent — know the rappels/walk-off
- Limited bail once high on the wall
🆘 Emergency contacts
- Emergency (Sheriff / SAR / Fire / Medical) 911 — Cell poor near Mazama — a satellite messenger may be needed
- Okanogan County Sheriff dispatch (SAR) 509-422-7232 — Okanogan County SAR, activated via the Sheriff
- Mid-Valley Hospital ER (Omak) — nearest 24-hr ER 509-826-1760 — ~1 hr+ from Mazama
🌤️ Live conditions
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👀 In the field
Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.
📍 Nearby & other interest
- Earl Grey (III 5.9 sport, Valhalla)
- Prime Rib of Goat — long Goat Wall moderate sport
- Methow Inspiration Route — Goat Wall multipitch
- Fun Rock — Mazama sport hub
💬 Comments
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