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Liberty Bell — Beckey Route (SW Face)

Washington Pass, North Cascades, WA II 5.6 Alpine Trad 4 pitches / ~500 ft / loose Beckey Gully alpine Rockfall in the Beckey Gully — worse with parties above
⬇ GPX / track⚠ unverified

🚐 Join the caravan

The Beckey Route is the classic, easiest line up Liberty Bell — a 4-pitch, Grade II 5.6 alpine rock climb up the SW face (FA Beckey, O'Neil, Welsh 1946). Chimney, moderate cracks, face and a short friction-slab summit move; the single most popular alpine route at Washington Pass (expect traffic jams on sunny weekends). Short and moderate but a genuine off-grid spire with a loose approach gully and a full rappel descent.

🚗 Getting there & comms

Trailhead: Blue Lake Trailhead (Trail #314)

SR-20 south side, ~0.5 mi past MP 162, ~1 mi west of Washington Pass. From Winthrop ~31 mi west; if you reach the Washington Pass Overlook you've gone too far. Paved lot ~20 spots, fills early. NW Forest Pass.

⛽ Last services: Mazama Store (~30–45 min E: coffee, food, limited-hours gas) is closest; Winthrop (~31 mi E) is the last reliable full town. Fuel + stock food/water before driving up — no services on the pass.

📶 Cell signal: Effectively no cell at Washington Pass or on the route; dead for most of the SR-20 corridor between Marblemount and Winthrop. Treat as off-grid — carry inReach/PLB.

🧗 Routes

Beckey Route (SW Face)II 5.6 Alpine Trad
4 pitches ~500 ft; chimneys to a short slabby 5.6 summit move

🥾 Approach · descent · season

Approach: Hike Blue Lake Trail #314, then branch onto the climbers' trail (built 2019) cutting left/uphill toward the spires. ~2.5 mi / 1–1.5 hr, ending in the loose Beckey Gully between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower; scramble to the notch on the S/SW side where the route starts. Early season the gully holds snow — axe and maybe crampons.

⬇️ Descent: Rappel the route: from the summit downclimb a short bit west to tree slings, then fixed/bolted rap anchors reach the ground in two single-rope rappels (60m). A station just below the summit bypasses the 5.6 boulder-problem on the way down. Re-descend the Beckey Gully to the trail.

🗓️ Season: Roughly July–September, once SR-20 is open and the gully melts out; snow lingers early summer. SR-20 over Washington Pass is closed in winter.

🎒 Gear & food

Rack: Light alpine rack: single nuts + cams to ~2 inch. Slings/runners for the wandering line + tree/horn anchors. Helmet (rockfall + parties above). Early season: ice axe + crampons for the snow gully.

Ropes: Single 60m (reaches the rap anchors in two single-rope rappels).

✅ Before you leave the trailhead

Auto-built from this dossier — ticks save on this device.

🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits

🪧 Land & passes: Okanogan-Wenatchee NF (Methow Valley RD); just outside North Cascades NP.

📋 Permits: NW Forest Pass / Interagency pass (or $5/day Scan & Pay) to park at Blue Lake TH. No climbing permit; day-use only.

⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency

  • Loose/rockfall-prone Beckey Gully — wear a helmet
  • Crowding: parties stacked above knock down rock + cause belay backups
  • Snow in the gully early season — axe/crampons, slip/fall risk
  • Exposed summit moves + rappels — anchor/rappel errors are serious
  • Afternoon thunderstorms on an exposed spire
  • No cell — true off-grid; long evac to definitive care

🆘 Emergency contacts

  • Emergency (all) 911 — No cell at the climb — use a satellite messenger/PLB
  • Okanogan County Sheriff Dispatch (SAR) 509-422-7232 — Okanogan County SAR covers Washington Pass
  • Mid-Valley Hospital ER, Omak 509-826-1760 — 810 Jasmine St, Omak — nearest hospital ER, ~29 mi from Winthrop

🌤️ Live conditions

🟢 Send window: Fri–Sat
Fri
🌤️
46° 31°
Sat
🌤️
52° 35°
Sun
☁️
66° 42°
Mon
☁️
64° 43°
Tue
🌦️
57° 38°

Auto-updated 20h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓

👀 In the field

Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.

📍 Nearby & other interest

  • South Early Winter Spire — SW Rib (III 5.8) + South Arête (5.5)
  • Concord Tower — North Face (5.8)
  • Lexington Tower — East Face (5.9)
  • Liberty Bell — Liberty Crack (V 5.10+ C1)

💬 Comments

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