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Liberty Bell Group — Liberty Traverse

Washington Pass, North Cascades, WA V 5.9 Alpine Trad 26 pitches / ~2,000 ft / all 5 spires — the season finale alpine Huge committing day — 26 pitches + many rappels · benighting + storm exposure

🚐 Join the caravan

The Liberty Traverse links all five spires of the Liberty Bell group in one Grade V (some say IV), 5.9, ~26-pitch / ~2,000 ft day: Liberty Bell (Beckey Route) → Concord Tower (North Face) → Lexington Tower (North Face) → North Early Winter Spire (NW Corner) → South Early Winter Spire (SW Rib), rappelling the south side of each tower. A Washington Pass mega-classic — 2 Grade IIIs and three Grade IIs strung together — and a fitting season finale. Huge, committing, off-grid.

🚗 Getting there & comms

Trailhead: Blue Lake Trailhead (Trail #314)

SR-20 ~1.5 mi W of Washington Pass, S side (~5,200 ft). NW Forest Pass. From Winthrop ~31 mi W.

⛽ Last services: Mazama (~30–45 min E, limited gas) + Winthrop (full services, ~31 mi E). Nothing on the pass.

📶 Cell signal: No cell at Washington Pass or on the spires — fully off-grid. Carry inReach/PLB; leave a detailed plan given the length.

🧗 Routes

Liberty TraverseV 5.9 Alpine Trad
~26 pitches: Liberty Bell (Beckey) → Concord (N Face) → Lexington (N Face) → NEWS (NW Corner) → SEWS (SW Rib)

🥾 Approach · descent · season

Approach: Blue Lake Trail ~1.5 mi to a small meadow; take the climbers' path left just after a small stream, up slabs/talus/meadow to below the gully between Liberty Bell and Concord. Start on Liberty Bell's Beckey Route (S/SW side).

⬇️ Descent: Built into the traverse: rappel the south face of each tower as you go; finish down the South Arête (5.5) of SEWS back toward Blue Lake. Many rappels — rope management is the real crux; know each tower's rap stations.

🗓️ Season: Mid-July–September, once SR-20 is open and the spires are dry/snow-free. Long daylight matters — it's a dawn-to-dark (or longer) push.

🎒 Gear & food

Rack: Standard rack (single to #3) plus a couple of bigger pieces for North Early Winter Spire; nuts; lots of slings. Double ropes for the many rappels.

Ropes: Double 60m ropes (the traverse rappels the south face of each tower).

✅ Before you leave the trailhead

Auto-built from this dossier — ticks save on this device.

🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits

🪧 Land & passes: Okanogan-Wenatchee NF (Methow Valley RD); just outside North Cascades NP.

📋 Permits: NW Forest Pass to park at Blue Lake TH. No climbing permit.

⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency

  • Enormous committing day — 26 pitches + many rappels; high benighting risk, bring headlamps + a bivy contingency
  • Afternoon thunderstorms on five exposed summits — start pre-dawn, watch the sky
  • Loose rock (Concord P2, descent gullies) + party-above rockfall
  • Complex rappels off each tower — rope management is the crux of staying safe
  • No cell — self-rescue distance is large
  • Snow in approach/descent gullies early season

🆘 Emergency contacts

  • Emergency (all) 911 — No cell at the climb — satellite messenger/PLB
  • Okanogan County Sheriff (SAR) 509-422-7232 — Okanogan County SAR covers Washington Pass
  • Mid-Valley Hospital ER, Omak 509-826-1760 — Nearest hospital ER, ~40–50 mi E

🌤️ Live conditions

🟢 Send window: Wed
Sun
☁️
60° 39°
Mon
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61° 45°
Tue
☁️
55° 35°
Wed
☀️
60° 32°
Thu
☁️
68° 39°

Auto-updated 21h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓

👀 In the field

Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.

📍 Nearby & other interest

  • The towers individually: Liberty Bell Beckey (II 5.6), Concord N Face (II 5.7), SEWS SW Rib (III 5.8)
  • Liberty Crack (V 5.10+ C1)
  • Blue Lake / Washington Pass

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