Prusik Peak — West Ridge
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Prusik's classic moderate — a Fred Beckey-era line on marvelous granite (Beckey & Art Holben made the peak's first ascent in May 1948), and the easiest and most popular way up Prusik's striking summit tower. A benchmark moderate alpine trad route in the Enchantments. The crux is a short, runout 5.7 friction slab on pitch 3; the rest is fun cracks and exposed ridge climbing on superb stone.
🥾 Approach · descent · season
Approach: Stuart Lake Trailhead (~3,400 ft) → Colchuck Lake → up Aasgard Pass into the Upper Enchantments (~10 mi, ~4,500 ft gain), then drop/traverse toward Prusik Pass and scramble to the base of the West Ridge below the SW side of the tower. Alternative: Snow Lakes TH (longer, ~18+ km, less brutal than Aasgard). Plan 5–7 hr to the base.
⬇️ Descent: Rappel the north face: ~4 single-rope rappels (or fewer with double ropes; all reachable with a 60m rope), then walk back over Prusik Pass to the base / your packs.
🗓️ Season: Mid-July through September once the Aasgard Pass snow has melted out; best in stable late-summer high pressure. Enchantments overnight permits are lottery-allocated for the core season.
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: Single rack of cams to 3–3.5 in, a set of nuts, and a handful of alpine draws/slings (slung blocks/horns make good anchors — no bolts). Ice axe + crampons only in early season for snow approach.
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Afternoon thunderstorms — exposed granite summit/ridge; also a committing rappel descent off the north face and a long approach far from help
🌤️ Live conditions
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