South Early Winter Spire — Southwest Rib
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A Grade III 5.8 alpine classic on the highest spire of the Liberty Bell Group, up the buttress just N (climber's left) of the SW Couloir on superb Golden Horn granite. ~6–7 pitches / ~900 ft — the Wavy Crack, a wide Bear Hug offwidth, and a delicate runout 5.6 Nervous Nelly slab — to an exposed 7,807 ft summit. Short approach but committing and off-grid: route-finding, wide-crack pro, and a multi-rappel descent.
🚗 Getting there & comms
Trailhead: Blue Lake Trailhead (Trail #314)
WA-20 ~0.5 mi W of MP 162, S side, ~1 mi W of the Washington Pass Overlook. From Winthrop ~31 mi W. Paved lot ~20 spaces, vault toilet. NW Forest Pass.
⛽ Last services: Mazama (~25–30 min E) + Winthrop (full services, ~45–60 min E). From the west, Marblemount/Newhalem ~1.5+ hr. No services at the TH.
📶 Cell signal: No cell at the TH, on route, or at Washington Pass — plan zero signal. In a 2025 accident a survivor drove ~42 mi to Newhalem to call for help. Carry inReach/PLB.
🧗 Routes
🥾 Approach · descent · season
Approach: Hike Blue Lake Trail #314 ~1.25 mi to a meadow with spire views; leave the trail and follow boot paths up and right toward the SW Couloir. The SW Rib starts at a Y-shaped larch at the toe of the buttress just climber's-left (N) of the couloir. ~1 hr, low-angle.
⬇️ Descent: Descend the South Arête (5.5 scramble): from the summit downclimb class 3–4 toward the col, then 2–3 rappels from bolted/slung anchors in the chimney on climber's right near the col (single 60m ok). One easy-to-miss rappel bypasses an awkward downclimb — bring the topo. Talus back to the trail.
🗓️ Season: Mid-July–September prime (WA-20 closed in winter; north-facing approach holds snow into early summer). September gives stable, cooler rock.
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: Single 60m. Single nuts; cams to #3 with doubles in #1–#2 (doubles of #2/#3 nice for the Wavy Crack); ONE large cam #4 (a #5 is better) for the Bear Hug (P5). Long slings; helmet.
Ropes: Single 60m (leads + the South Arête rappels).
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits
🪧 Land & passes: Okanogan-Wenatchee NF (Methow Valley RD); just outside North Cascades NP.
📋 Permits: NW Forest Pass to park at Blue Lake TH. No climbing or wilderness permit for a day climb.
⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Runout 5.6 Nervous Nelly slab — long-fall potential despite the moderate grade, minimal pro
- Afternoon thunderstorms on an exposed summit/arête — start early
- Wide Bear Hug offwidth (P5) with ledge-fall potential if under-protected
- Route-finding: variations 5.7–5.10, easy to wander onto harder rock
- Rappel descent down the South Arête — an easy-to-miss rap leads to a committing downclimb
- Loose rock + party-above hazard on a popular spire
- Lingering snow early season; no cell for self-rescue
🆘 Emergency contacts
- Emergency (dispatch) 911 — No cell at the climb — use a satellite messenger/PLB
- Okanogan County Sheriff (SAR) 509-422-7232 — Okanogan County SAR activated via the Sheriff
- Three Rivers Hospital ER, Brewster 509-689-2517 — 507 Hospital Way, Brewster — nearest 24/7 ER, ~2 hr E
🌤️ Live conditions
Auto-updated 20h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓
👀 In the field
Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.
📍 Nearby & other interest
- Liberty Bell — Beckey Route (II 5.6)
- SEWS — South Arête (5.5, the descent, climbable on its own)
- Concord Tower — North Face (5.8)
- Lexington Tower — East Face (5.9)
- Cutthroat Peak
- Kangaroo Temple — North Face (5.7)
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