The Apron — Diedre
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Diedre is the classic introductory multipitch trad slab at Squamish — 6 pitches (~240m, Grade II 5.8) of textured granite slab capped by 100m+ of laybacking up a clean right-facing dihedral, with bolted belays throughout. The most popular route on the Apron — expect company, start early. Directly above town and the highway with cell at the base: a textbook WFH crag day — climb in the morning, online by afternoon.
🚗 Getting there & comms
Trailhead: Stawamus Chief Climber's / Apron Parking (BC Parks)
From downtown Squamish ~3 km S on Hwy 99; lot on the E side at the Stawamus River FSR junction, just N of the Chief roadside viewpoint. Park legally — illegal vehicles are towed. ~5 min from town.
⛽ Last services: Downtown Squamish (~3 km / 5 min N) — gas, grocery, cafes, climbing shops, restaurants. Last fuel/food before the lot.
📶 Cell signal: Good LTE/5G at the lot + base of the Apron (right above town/highway); holds on much of the route — this is why it works as a WFH crag day. Coverage thins higher on the Chief.
🧗 Routes
🥾 Approach · descent · season
Approach: From the Apron lot, ~5 min: follow the trail past the outhouse toward the base of the Apron, then scramble up and right via low-3rd-class gullies/ledges to the obvious right-facing dihedral on the right side of the central slab (base of P1). ~10–15 min total; slabby scramble, greasy when wet.
⬇️ Descent: (1) Rappel the route with DOUBLE 60m ropes from the bolted anchors. (2) Continue up easier slabs to Broadway ledge, walk S along Broadway and down the 3rd-class Slabs descent. Bail: belays are bolted so you can rap from anywhere — a single-rope rappel will NOT reach between stations, so a 2nd rope/tag line is mandatory.
🗓️ Season: May–October prime; dry, cooler conditions best. The south-facing slab dries fast but is unclimbable when wet/seeping. Mar 15–Jul 31 peregrine closures on parts of the Chief — verify. Avoid mid-summer afternoon heat.
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: Single cams to 2 inch (nothing bigger than a #2) + full nuts/stoppers. Emphasize small-to-mid stoppers + small cams (doubles 0.3–0.75 for the dihedral). Long slings for the wandering slab. Belays are bolted.
Ropes: Double 60m ropes (or 60m lead + 60m tag/rap line) — required to rappel/bail; a single won't reach between stations.
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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🏕️ Land · camp · water · permits
🪧 Land & passes: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, BC Parks (British Columbia).
📋 Permits: No climbing permit or fee. Day-use parking only (no overnight roadside). Respect Mar 15–Jul 31 peregrine nesting closures on affected cliffs of the Chief.
⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Polished low-friction slab — extremely slick when wet/damp/seeping; do not attempt if greasy
- Very popular: log-jams, simul-rapping parties, rockfall/dropped gear from above
- Sustained 100m+ laybacking (P3–4) is pumpy; the 5.8 crux feels exposed
- Long slab runouts between gear/bolts on the easy sections
- Double-rope rappel required to bail — a single 60m strands you between stations
- Afternoon sun/heat on the S-facing Apron — bring water
- Peregrine closures Mar 15–Jul 31 on parts of the Chief — verify before going
🆘 Emergency contacts
- Emergency (Police/Fire/Ambulance) 911 — For climbing rescue call 911 and ask for police — RCMP tasks Squamish SAR. Do NOT call SAR directly.
- Squamish RCMP (non-emergency) 604-892-6100 — Coordinates SAR taskings
- Squamish General Hospital 604-892-5211 — 38140 Behrner Dr, Squamish — nearest ER, ~5 min from the TH
🌤️ Live conditions
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👀 In the field
Tap any for ID, edibility & first-aid.
📍 Nearby & other interest
- Snake (5.9, Apron)
- Banana Peel (5.8, Apron)
- St. Vitus' Dance (5.9, Apron)
- Grand Wall routes
- Smoke Bluffs cragging
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