The Sharkstooth — Northeast Ridge
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The classic moderate alpine rock line of RMNP's Cathedral Spires — five to six clean, sustained 5.4–5.6 pitches up the soaring NE ridge of the 12,630 ft Sharkstooth, the tallest Cathedral Spire, with an inspiring crux roof and big exposure above Loch Vale. A benchmark intro to committing alpine trad at the grade.
🥾 Approach · descent · season
Approach: Glacier Gorge trailhead → Loch Vale / Andrews Glacier trail up the Andrews Glacier drainage toward Andrews Tarn, then break off and ascend "The Gash" (large boulder/talus field, possible steep snow early season) to a ledge system at the base of the NE ridge. ~3–4 mi, ~2,500 ft gain; ~2–3 hr to base. Scramble ledges to the first pitch.
⬇️ Descent: From the summit head southeast down a short gully to rappel rings: three 50–60 m rappels (bring two ropes, or a single 70 m with short downclowns) deposit you near the top of The Gash / east col, then descend the talus of The Gash back to the approach trail. Beware rockfall when pulling ropes.
🗓️ Season: Mid/late summer through early fall (Aug–Sept) once snow has cleared from The Gash. NOTE: raptor-nesting closure typically Feb 15–Jul 31 in the Cathedral Wall / Loch Vale area — verify current RMNP closure dates before going.
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: Standard alpine single rack to ~3 in, a set of nuts, alpine draws/slings; double 50–60 m ropes (or a 70 m) for the rappels.
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Afternoon lightning at 12,630 ft on an exposed ridge — start pre-dawn, summit early; loose rock on upper pitches and during rappels
🌤️ Live conditions
Auto-updated 20h ago · °F · tap a link for the mountain-specific picture ↓
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