The Tooth — South Face
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A fin-like andesite pillar above Source Lake and one of the most popular alpine rock climbs in Washington — juggy, well-protected 5.4 cracks and flakes on solid rock, a genuine summit, and a short approach from I-90 make it the quintessential first alpine lead. South Face first climbed in 1928 by C.L. Anderson & Herman Wunderling.
🥾 Approach · descent · season
Approach: From the Alpental parking lot (Exit 52, Snoqualmie Pass, ~3,100 ft) hike the Snow Lake Trail ~1.5-2 mi to the Source Lake basin, then follow climbers' paths up talus (snow early season) toward the notch south of The Tooth. Cross over the second notch, descend slightly, then traverse/scramble (class 3-4) to Pineapple Pass — the saddle between The Tooth and the pinnacle to its south. The route starts up the south face from the pass. Note: do NOT scramble directly up to Pineapple Pass, as that line is the rappel route. Roughly 2-3 hr to the base.
⬇️ Descent: Rappel the route — about four rappels off fixed stations (rings/slings/cord) back down to Pineapple Pass; a 60m or double rope is recommended (some stations are full-length). Then reverse the approach scramble/talus. Alternatively, the east gully from Pineapple Pass has two bolted chain anchors allowing two rappels with a 60m to regain the talus, though reversing the scramble back over the notches is often safer/faster for larger parties.
🗓️ Season: Mid-July through September once the approach talus is melted out; an early-season snow approach (May-June) is common but adds axe/traction and avalanche awareness in the basin.
🎒 Gear & food
Rack: Light alpine rack: single cams to 3 in, a smattering of nuts, alpine draws/long slings to manage drag. One 60m rope leads and descends (a second rope speeds the rappels). Helmet.
✅ Before you leave the trailhead
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⚠️ Hazards · fire · emergency
- Descent complexity — four rappels off fixed slung/chained stations back to Pineapple Pass plus exposed class 3-4 scrambling around the notches; route-finding on the talus/snow approach is the real crux, and afternoon thunderstorms are a Cascade lightning risk on the exposed fin.
🌤️ Live conditions
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